The pilgrims of Markham

Since the Mt Kawa Karpo is one of the most holy mountains in Tibetan Buddhism, the waterfalls from this range, it goes without saying, is by default also one of the holiest. Naturally ;-)

Seriously, though, Tibetan Buddhists try their best to make a pilgrimage at least once in their lives (annually if they have to means to do so) to this site to offer their prayers to the spirit forces inhabiting the mountains. Traditionally, Tibetans will perform a Kora - which is a circumambulation around the peak. This will take about 2 weeks, depending on the circuit chosen. Bringing basic food supplies with them like barley flour, pots, pans, and firewood, they walk a portion of the circuit each day, and sleep in tents or in temples or the houses of local villagers. Oh, and a few mules might come in handy for carrying all those luggage.

They believe that completing a kora amounts to gaining merit (something like brownie points) and having all past sins forgiven. This should be enough motivation for me to embark on one, really. The kora around Mt Kawa Karpo takes pilgrims around a sacred waterfall, some lakes and a glacier.

Given the limited amount of time i could spend in this area, i had to choose between a day trek to the waterfall, or the glacier lake. We were told that the waterfall route was more scenic, and also shorter and flatter than the trek to the lake. Considerably cheered, we decided on the waterfall. All in all, it would be a 6-7 hour trek.

En-route to the falls, we passed a small village at the bottom of the valley called Lower Yu-beng village. Yu-beng is already quite a well-known and well-regarded trek route amongst local Chinese outdoor enthusiasts, not least because of all sacred sites. As it is not in any of the English guides (yet), (e.g. Lonelyplanet and Roughguide), it is still relatively low-profile amongst Western tourists and well off the beaten route. As we circled round the stupa 3 times for good luck (everything is done in a clockwise circle with Tibetans, it seems), i noticed the surroundings were so peaceful, and tranquil. The animals grazed quietly in the farms. We met the occasional villager and they were all friendly and curious at the Western tourists amongst us. We returned their greetings with a “Tashideleg!" and this would never fail to bring on a surprised smile on their faces.

The breeze blowing across the village came from the Meili Snow mountain range and was crisp, fresh and so icy cold it felt like there was an air-conditioner blowing in our faces. We had to scramble to put on our gloves, hat and extra layers of warm clothes before continuing our walk. Still, the calmness and tranquility of the surroundings was amazing.

Soon, the path turned into a climb again. At an altitude of >3000m, i became breathless and tired easily, stopping frequently just to take deep breaths.


The road to the waterfalls is adorned with prayer flags

We met a few hikers and locals on the way back from the waterfalls - and when we asked them how far more to go, the standard answer would always be "not far, about 20 more minutes and you're there". Well, several "20 more minutes" passed and still no sign of the waterfall. At each bend, we were greeted with more bends, and upward slopes. Oh, the pain of being so unfit!

Out of nowhere, a sprightly group of Tibetans in their traditional dress appeared from behind us. There were about 15 of them, mostly elderly women on a pilgrimage to the waterfalls. Armed with bamboo poles and prayer beads, they walked energetically and bantered amongst themselves. There was a purposeful air about them. We exchanged our greetings, and it wasn’t long before they over took us, disappearing into the distance.

Finally, 4 hours after we started from upper Yu-beng village, we reached the waterfall. Someone neglected to tell us that at this time of the year, the waterfalls are rather dry and the water coming down was more in drips than gushing falls - much like the leaky faucet of our crappy hostel. Oh well. I plonked myself down on a piece of rock - too tired to do anything else but rest my jello legs and admire the view of Mt Kawa Karpo. It was even more majestic from this close up.

The Tibetan pilgrims had already reached much earlier and begun preparing for their praying ceremony. They came prepared with rolls of prayer flags and started a fire to burn some incense. Smoke began billowing out of the juniper branches.

Soon, all of them gathered near the foot of the waterfall and the ceremony began. At first, their voices were low, but slowly gathered in volume. A slow, lilting melodious chant rose in the air. It sounded mystical and yet strangely soothing. As they chanted, their hands were in prayer pose clasping their beads; their heads gazed up at the waterfall.

A few of us decided to join in and stood respectfully behind them. We all watched quietly, perhaps aware that something unusual was about to happen. I felt as though I was in the presence of something very powerful.

Suddenly, the wind kicked in, and a fine mist began to blow over the top of the waterfalls. The mist billowed gently in the wind like waves before disappearing into the air above us.

The pilgrims took a few steps forward, still chanting,their eyes never leaving the top of the waterfall.

Ever so slowly, the spray thickened and it wasnt long before water started to drizzle down the falls.

The pilgrims began to walk in single file towards the base of the waterfall. As the first pilgrim stepped into the drizzling water, it thickened into a heavy downpour. One by one, everyone entered the falls.

Arms outstretched some pilgrims prostrated in front of the waterfall. A few touched their foreheads against the rocks as they muttered their prayers. Some collected the holy water with their hands to drink, while others came prepared with plastic bottles to collect it for their family back home. All this time, icy-cold water rained down on us and we were all getting soaked. It was a very spiritual moment, which I feel I still cannot describe completely in words. The pilgrims were singing, praying, laughing, their faces were blissful and contented. They had successfully completed yet another part of the kora.

After about 15 minutes, the head of the pilgrimage signaled the end of the prayers and everyone formed a single line to walk around the waterfall (you guessed it, clockwise) 3 times before stepping away. Almost immediately as the last pilgrim left the waterfall, the downpour slowed into a drizzle again. It wasnt long before the drizzle became just a fine mist again, billowing in the wind.

Ceremony completed, the pilgrims sat down near the falls and unpacked their food. Sat in a large group, they generously broke off large chunks of bread and offered them to us. In fact, they almost forced it into our hands despite our polite declines. Some of them can speak a little Mandarin and repeatedly urged us to join their group. We could not refuse their offer and yet we felt a little guilty taking their food, when we knew they had so little and couldn't afford the luxuries (ok, pot noodles and Pepsi isnt exactly gourmet but...) we enjoyed on our trek. We hadn't brought any food with us to share with them either because there were rest stops along the way to fuel up.

From somebody's conversation, I learned that these pilgrims were from 2 small Tibetan towns of Markham in east Tibet. Together, they had pooled some money to hire a van to drive them across to northwest Yunnan to perform this pilgrimage. They were staying at a temple in lower Yu-beng tonight and moving on to the Mingyong glacier (another part of the kora) the next day.

We sat in the sunshine and enjoyed their company, trying to refuse as much of their food as possible. We did not speak much because of the language barrier but our body language, lots of smiles and bits of sign language were enough to get by.

With their weather-beaten faces and toothy-grins, these grannies were at once curious and self-conscious in front of the cameras. They were shy and somewhat unaware of how to smile or behave when taking photos but would be amazed and explode into innocent giggles and laughter when they saw their own images on the playback. One of them carefully adjusted her hair and urged me to take another photo. Again, they collapsed into peals of giggles when I showed them the result.

Soon, it was time to leave. The pilgrims packed up quickly, stubbed out the fires and gathered their bamboo poles. We waved our goodbyes as the group started their descent in a single file. As I navigated my way gingerly down the steep slopes, I was again amazed how these mountain folk deftly skipped their way down, seemingly unfazed by all the slippery loose gravel. One of the grannies came up to me, put her arm around mine, and gestured at my backpack. I figured out pretty quickly she was offering to carry it for me AND help me down the slope! I was so amused I couldn’t stop laughing. Did I really look so pathetic and awkward that a sweet, old granny took pity on me?! I refused her offer because I was afraid she might drag me down the slope at the speed she was going!

Back at the lodge, I reflected on the whole day’s events. It was one of those times where I was (and still am) at a loss of words because I would not believe the spectacle I had just witnessed if I didn’t see it for myself. So I don’t expect everybody reading this to be convinced and perhaps some of the more scientifically inclined can offer some explanations, or convenient coincidences...

The exchange with these women was simple, and yet so profound. I was touched by their kindness and generosity, moved by their faith, the simplicity and uncomplicated-ness of their lifestyle. No hiking boots for them but just simple cloth shoes. No high-tech Goretex windbreaker but homemade woolly sweaters. For them, it was quite straightforward. Even so, they didn’t see us as rich, camera-wielding trekkers decked out in fancy gear. On that day, we just happened to be making the same journey to their holy site and they shared their joys, their faith and their food. I have much respect for these mountainfolk who have so little and yet shared everything with us unconditionally.