Huanglong

Personally, I enjoyed Huanglong a lot more than Jiuzhaigou. Despite hearing conflicting rumours about whether Huanglong was open to visitors in the off-peak season, we decided to risk it anyway. To our delight, the park was near-empty upon our arrival – I counted less than 15 visitors I saw in the 4 hours we were there.

My travel companions and I took a leisurely walk (not as easy as it sounds since i get really breathless at higher altitude!) up to the highest point (3600m above sea-level), stopping to take in the numerous shimmering multi-coloured ponds, lakes, a completely frozen waterfall, and of course its famed travertine formations.

The calcium carbonate in the pools give off different hues in the sunshine

A waterfall completely frozen in motion - surreal!

Travertine (i learnt a new word!) formations formed by calcium and other mineral deposits

Tibetan temple near the top of the park

If you listened carefully enough, you could hear gurgling sounds of water rushing beneath the frozen surface.

Jiuzhaigou

Well-known amongst local and foreign visitors for its captivating scenery, Jiuzhaigou (literally means “Nine-Stockade Valley”) in the Aba county of Sichuan boasts several scenic lakes, waterfalls and peaks. Bestowed with a UNESCO World Heritage Site title as well as designated a China AAAA class scenic spot title also means, unfortunately that this area has became vastly commercialized and crass.

Since the early 1980s (or was it the 70s?), the Jiuzhaigou Scenic Area has been developed rapidly, and ticket prices reflect its status as a top tourist destination Entry tickets are a whopping 200RMB during peak season and that’s excluding the bus that runs within the park (that costs another 90RMB).

Historically, Jiuzhaigou was mainly occupied by Tibetans and Qiang ethnic minorities but that is probably no longer the case. The villages leading to the gates of the national park are swamped with countless insipid hotels, souvenir stores, restaurants, amenities etc, in uniform concrete buildings (painted to look Tibetan-style) catering to the masses, and these are run mostly by Han Chinese. There are also performance theatres promising “authentic” Tibetan singing and dancing performances.

During the off-peak season, which is when I visited, this area is a dismal ghost-town with most of the restaurants, theatres and shops shut. The relative peace and quiet was much welcomed though. Less visitors meant I didn’t have to book transport or accommodation in advance. The bus-station and vast coach-parks built to cope with peak season crowds are deserted, taxis cruise empty, honking desperately at tourists and the Sheraton glows eerily, with its shiny Christmas lights and tinsel. Not that I stayed there of course –I was merely passing by. In fact, I probably stayed in the opposite extreme of a 5 star luxury hotel – a 20RMB per night dorm bed in a youth hostel. The only heating we had in this sub-zero weather was an electric blanket!

I met some fellow travelers en-route to Jiuzhaigou - we hunkered down in the same dorm and spent an amiable few days together. During the day, we visited Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong national parks, and during the evenings, we gathered round the coal-fired stove to play cards, drink tea and chat.

My take on Jiuzhaigou – Well, it was indeed beautiful, with its alpine forests, snow-capped mountains, waterfalls and aquamarine lakes. But, I couldn’t help but think that I saw all this pristine beauty in Norway couple years back, sans gated entry, constant signs and reminders not to smoke, litter or feed the fishes,and &*@# touts!! At every scenic spot that the bus off-loaded us, touts peddled jewelry, souvenirs, “1-minute instant photos” that came complete with slip-on Tibetan costumes so you can really look the part. I know they are just trying to make a living but we were hassled incessantly and that just killed it for me.

Also, it was annoying that the park closed off several scenic spots and walkways due to some dubious reason of “high danger of fire hazards”. This meant effectively that a) we couldn’t see ALL the stuff we wanted to see and b) we were forced to pay extra for the bus, get off, snap a picture, and board the bus repeatedly in order to tour the park. I had come to Jiuzhaigou prepared to walk and take in the scenery quietly over a couple of days, but now I was forced to see the park with bus-loads of other tourists in such a restricted mode. Cramping my style! I shudder to think what this place must be like in peak-season.

Sichuan Revisited [2008]

My first visit to Sichuan was in Nov 2006, as a somewhat carefree backpacker. From Zhongdian (Yunnan), my travel companions Will, Hazel and myself crossed over to west Sichuan into a little town called Daocheng, and thereafter taking long bus rides to Litang and Kangding on the way to Chengdu. Even though i complained inccessantly then about those colourful, long bus rides in freezing weather, they were, in fact one of the most memorable parts of my trip!

Looking back at my posts from 2 years ago, I am no doubt amused by the stuff I used to be amused about. I can sense a different mood in my writing then and now - I was definitely more carefree and adventurous before! Back then, I was new to China, and new to the country’s culture, language, and ‘the way things worked”. Everything was a lot more fresh and exciting and I discovered new things everyday.

Admittedly, this novelty has since waned significantly now that I’ve spent 2 years now in China, and I’m familiar with “the system”. (Or perhaps growing older makes you more cynical generally?) I don’t think so hard about eating in hole-in-the-walls and wondering whether I’ll get food poisoning, my Mandarin and bargaining skills have significantly improved and allowed me to research a lot more local information, travel more inconspicuously ( not a blatant laowai), and navigate my way around like any other seasoned Chinese traveller.

I remember Yingtze and I chanced upon a lamian shop in Yunnan and excitedly watched the guy shave slivers of dough into a pot of boiling water – my very first Lanzhou daoxiao mian experience! We gawked and even took pictures. Later on, I realized that Lanzhou lamian stalls were so ubiquitous they were in every other street corner in every city in every province!!

I don’t want to lose this sense of adventure and joie de vivre – Life would be so bland if one became blasé and jaded about everything, no? Although my trip this time was short, it was, in many ways, a timely reminder for me to “rediscover my sense of discovery” so to speak.

While living in Hangzhou, I took short trips here and there, but nothing beats going on a long trip on your own. It’s been awhile since I’ve travelled solo – and I missed that feeling (and perhaps I might not have many more chances to do so in future!), being on the road, taking in new scenery and meeting people. So with about 10 days to spare, once again, I stuffed my rucksack with warm clothing, and “just-in-case supplies”, and boarded a plane for Chengdu with a vague plan to explore North Sichuan.

Leaving Hangzhou, next stop: Beijing

I had a busy 2-3 months prior to leaving Hangzhou for good. In between work, my weekly schedule of yoga, running and drinking, my parents visited China and i spent some time with them. Then there was a decadent Shanghai weekend trip squeezed in, visits to Beijing, the HZ mountain race, HZ marathon, a raucous Halloween party and countless other reasons i was in the bar - birthdays, farewells and such.

It goes without saying that by now i have developed a strong attachment to the city, not least because of my friends here that have made me feel at home in Hangzhou. But at the same time, towards the last 6 months, i had a growing restlessness and a niggly feeling that it was time for me to move on. Perhaps my only regret is I could have achieved more work-wise. It was hard to prise myself away from my friends and my life in Hangzhou. To relocate to a new city, find a new job, new friends, and have a new life would mean scrapping the rythym and stability i had acquired and starting from zero all over again.

But hey, this is what life is all about - There's much more to be done and experienced elsewhere!Change is the only constant, as the cliche goes. Keep on dancing!