Jiuzhaigou/ Huanglong revisited

One of the few bonuses of work finally surfaced in the form of an expense-paid client summit our company organized in Sichuan – yayyy! Compared to the freezing cold and desolation in winter 2008 (and not to mention 20RMB hostel beds with little or no heating!), this time, we were in a 5 star hotel and after a one-day mind-numbing conference, we were rewarded with two days of sightseeing – we even got a cable-car ride up to the top of Huanglong (as opposed to a 4 hour hike) nope, can’t complain about it.

Crystal Clear waters

Huanglong is very desolate in winter. It’s cold and completely devoid of tourists. The cable-car is off-service and we almost walked into the park unchecked (the ticket officer sprang out from a little hut, no doubt hiding from the cold)
This time the colours were much more vivid because of the lush verdant forests and numerous waterfalls. I also got to see several more sights and walking trails that were sealed of in winter. Of course, the payoff was are a lot more tourists in summer and that means endless queuing and jostling!

Huanglong

Personally, I enjoyed Huanglong a lot more than Jiuzhaigou. Despite hearing conflicting rumours about whether Huanglong was open to visitors in the off-peak season, we decided to risk it anyway. To our delight, the park was near-empty upon our arrival – I counted less than 15 visitors I saw in the 4 hours we were there.

My travel companions and I took a leisurely walk (not as easy as it sounds since i get really breathless at higher altitude!) up to the highest point (3600m above sea-level), stopping to take in the numerous shimmering multi-coloured ponds, lakes, a completely frozen waterfall, and of course its famed travertine formations.

The calcium carbonate in the pools give off different hues in the sunshine

A waterfall completely frozen in motion - surreal!

Travertine (i learnt a new word!) formations formed by calcium and other mineral deposits

Tibetan temple near the top of the park

If you listened carefully enough, you could hear gurgling sounds of water rushing beneath the frozen surface.

Jiuzhaigou

Well-known amongst local and foreign visitors for its captivating scenery, Jiuzhaigou (literally means “Nine-Stockade Valley”) in the Aba county of Sichuan boasts several scenic lakes, waterfalls and peaks. Bestowed with a UNESCO World Heritage Site title as well as designated a China AAAA class scenic spot title also means, unfortunately that this area has became vastly commercialized and crass.

Since the early 1980s (or was it the 70s?), the Jiuzhaigou Scenic Area has been developed rapidly, and ticket prices reflect its status as a top tourist destination Entry tickets are a whopping 200RMB during peak season and that’s excluding the bus that runs within the park (that costs another 90RMB).

Historically, Jiuzhaigou was mainly occupied by Tibetans and Qiang ethnic minorities but that is probably no longer the case. The villages leading to the gates of the national park are swamped with countless insipid hotels, souvenir stores, restaurants, amenities etc, in uniform concrete buildings (painted to look Tibetan-style) catering to the masses, and these are run mostly by Han Chinese. There are also performance theatres promising “authentic” Tibetan singing and dancing performances.

During the off-peak season, which is when I visited, this area is a dismal ghost-town with most of the restaurants, theatres and shops shut. The relative peace and quiet was much welcomed though. Less visitors meant I didn’t have to book transport or accommodation in advance. The bus-station and vast coach-parks built to cope with peak season crowds are deserted, taxis cruise empty, honking desperately at tourists and the Sheraton glows eerily, with its shiny Christmas lights and tinsel. Not that I stayed there of course –I was merely passing by. In fact, I probably stayed in the opposite extreme of a 5 star luxury hotel – a 20RMB per night dorm bed in a youth hostel. The only heating we had in this sub-zero weather was an electric blanket!

I met some fellow travelers en-route to Jiuzhaigou - we hunkered down in the same dorm and spent an amiable few days together. During the day, we visited Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong national parks, and during the evenings, we gathered round the coal-fired stove to play cards, drink tea and chat.

My take on Jiuzhaigou – Well, it was indeed beautiful, with its alpine forests, snow-capped mountains, waterfalls and aquamarine lakes. But, I couldn’t help but think that I saw all this pristine beauty in Norway couple years back, sans gated entry, constant signs and reminders not to smoke, litter or feed the fishes,and &*@# touts!! At every scenic spot that the bus off-loaded us, touts peddled jewelry, souvenirs, “1-minute instant photos” that came complete with slip-on Tibetan costumes so you can really look the part. I know they are just trying to make a living but we were hassled incessantly and that just killed it for me.

Also, it was annoying that the park closed off several scenic spots and walkways due to some dubious reason of “high danger of fire hazards”. This meant effectively that a) we couldn’t see ALL the stuff we wanted to see and b) we were forced to pay extra for the bus, get off, snap a picture, and board the bus repeatedly in order to tour the park. I had come to Jiuzhaigou prepared to walk and take in the scenery quietly over a couple of days, but now I was forced to see the park with bus-loads of other tourists in such a restricted mode. Cramping my style! I shudder to think what this place must be like in peak-season.

Sichuan Revisited [2008]

My first visit to Sichuan was in Nov 2006, as a somewhat carefree backpacker. From Zhongdian (Yunnan), my travel companions Will, Hazel and myself crossed over to west Sichuan into a little town called Daocheng, and thereafter taking long bus rides to Litang and Kangding on the way to Chengdu. Even though i complained inccessantly then about those colourful, long bus rides in freezing weather, they were, in fact one of the most memorable parts of my trip!

Looking back at my posts from 2 years ago, I am no doubt amused by the stuff I used to be amused about. I can sense a different mood in my writing then and now - I was definitely more carefree and adventurous before! Back then, I was new to China, and new to the country’s culture, language, and ‘the way things worked”. Everything was a lot more fresh and exciting and I discovered new things everyday.

Admittedly, this novelty has since waned significantly now that I’ve spent 2 years now in China, and I’m familiar with “the system”. (Or perhaps growing older makes you more cynical generally?) I don’t think so hard about eating in hole-in-the-walls and wondering whether I’ll get food poisoning, my Mandarin and bargaining skills have significantly improved and allowed me to research a lot more local information, travel more inconspicuously ( not a blatant laowai), and navigate my way around like any other seasoned Chinese traveller.

I remember Yingtze and I chanced upon a lamian shop in Yunnan and excitedly watched the guy shave slivers of dough into a pot of boiling water – my very first Lanzhou daoxiao mian experience! We gawked and even took pictures. Later on, I realized that Lanzhou lamian stalls were so ubiquitous they were in every other street corner in every city in every province!!

I don’t want to lose this sense of adventure and joie de vivre – Life would be so bland if one became blasé and jaded about everything, no? Although my trip this time was short, it was, in many ways, a timely reminder for me to “rediscover my sense of discovery” so to speak.

While living in Hangzhou, I took short trips here and there, but nothing beats going on a long trip on your own. It’s been awhile since I’ve travelled solo – and I missed that feeling (and perhaps I might not have many more chances to do so in future!), being on the road, taking in new scenery and meeting people. So with about 10 days to spare, once again, I stuffed my rucksack with warm clothing, and “just-in-case supplies”, and boarded a plane for Chengdu with a vague plan to explore North Sichuan.

Chengdu - yep no sign of yaks here anywhere...

After weeks in the backwaters of southwestern China, we finally arrived in the Sichuan capital Chengdu. Like migrants "fresh off the boat", we gawked and marvelled at the skyscrapers, numerous expressways, fancy big cars on the road, and in general, the hustle-bustle of city life.

Immediately after dumping our backpacks in the guesthouse, we made a beeline for Western food - it had been 3 weeks since i'd sunk my teeth into a sandwich! French fries with ketchup!! I could cry... This is one of those rare times where i appreciate Ronald for providing consistent, identical, unhealthy junk food everywhere in the world. Hey, I need it! We had all shed quite a few pounds along the way.

In Chengdu, we were mostly in a recuperative mood and not too excited about any sight-seeing. The 3 of us were in good spirits and our appetites had returned. It was great to have consistent electricity, continuously hot running water in the shower, and clean clothes again. Chengdu weather was also much milder, at about 18-20 degrees celsius - which meant we could actually air our skin and feet without getting hypothermia. We spent 3 very leisurely days reading, playing table-tennis in the guesthouse, eating tuna sandwiches and running errands.

Chocolate-cheese for sale in the supermarket.. Why..?

As if blood tofu, chicken hearts and blow-torched pig trotters aren't exotic enough, a walk through the supermarket gives an insight into the various bizarre types of food you can try in China. I admit to liking chocolate and cheese... but not both at the same time!

On the way to the train station, we spotted this man poised and balanced perfectly on his motorbike, snoozing. I had a sudden, irresistable urge to walk over and tip the bike over..

Lake Mugecuo (part 2)

Apline lakes and hot springs dot the area, and about 45minutes trek from the lake, you can get a spectacular view of the Gongga mountain range, also known as the Minya Konka. (Everything here has about 3 different names! One in chinese, tibetan and sometimes English if you are lucky!)

Houses for Hobbits!

Along the way, we spotted some tiny houses that seemed to be stacked together entirely with stones - its a wonder it doesn't fall apart. We didnt' really go too near - there were lots of dogs barking!

With Will & Hazel - they made excellent travelling companions and i couldn't have done this long Sichuan journey without them! Will and Hazel have been backpacking through Asia for the past 15 months and China is their final stop before taking the Trans-siberian express home in time for Christmas. They entertained with their jokes and travel stories, watched out for me and looked after me when i was ill in Litang. Being in each other's company for almost 24 hours a day for a week meant that we all emerged with a new understanding of each other's idiosyncracies, habits, eating likes and dislikes!

Lake Mugecuo (part 1)

After Litang, we embarked (you guessed it, on another 8 hour rickety bus ride) to Kangding. The long, smoke-filled bus journeys were now taking its toil on us. No doub,t it was scenic on the way but we were always having to leave early in the morning e.g. at 6am, jostle onto the bus and endure the freezing bumpy ride. At Kangding, we were debating how many days to spend in this little town before moving onward. Should we break for 2 nights in Kangding or press on to Chengdu as soon as possible? We are now 8 hours away from Chengdu - not far now from the capital of Sichuan where there are more comfortable alternatives (Trains!) to other parts of China! Will, Hazel and I didn't find Kangding particularly interesting and we embarked on a little outing to Lake Mugecuo instead.

Lake Mugecuo or Mo Ge Tso Lake in Tibetan

Lake Mugecuo is a beautiful reserve area located about 35km away from the town of Kangding. It covers an area of about 500 sq km (bigger than the size of Singapore!), and the altitude is between 2900 -3800m.

Apart from the lake, there are several other scenic spots and walking trails.

Spin some Tibetan prayer wheels for good luck...

Litang, the wild town (part 3)

Kids clambering around Hazel -fascinated with the camera and excited to see their own images on it. They also wanted to take turns snapping photos! This one below was taken by one of the kids.

The Ganden Thubchen Choekhorling Monastery

Litang, the wild town (part 2)

On the way to the local lamasery, we passed through a small Tibetan village.

Traditional Tibetan houses with the distinctive red lining. Most of the houses are made of mud and brick.

These houses blend right in to the barren hills..

The biggest load of crap i've ever seen..

While wandering around the village, we passed by some villagers collecting yak dung. Someone must have came with a truck to unload the whole thing in the middle of the street. Yaks are useful animals to have around - good for meat, making butter, keep you warm with their fur and even their their dung can be used. During winter, when firewood is scarce, dried yak dung is a good and economical source of fuel!

Wind-burned cheeks and snotty noses!

Children from the village let loose after school - they were all very friendly and curious to know us. Even though they were shy at first, after the initial exchange of "tashideleks", we were able to converse a little bit in Mandarin! One or two of them asked Will and Hazel for "One yuan, give me one yuan!" - that was the only English phase they knew and no doubt they were trying their luck. I had to admonish them sternly in mandarin for begging.

Litang, the wild town (part 1)

From Daocheng, Will, Hazel and I continued our way northward toward Litang on yet another rickety local bus. Wild, remote, and scenic, Litang is situated 4014 m above sea-level on the Tibetan plateau.

Having ascended slowly from the various places we had been travelling through for the previous 10 days, we were able to acclimatize better. Still, the altitude got to me. The air here is freezing cold, dry and thin in oxygen. I found myself panting just walking up a flight of steps, or breathless and gasping for air when i walked too fast up a slight gradient. (How do people run a the Inca marathon in Macchu Picchu at 4000m altitude?!)

During the few weeks i was here, sleep came in fitful bouts and i awoke to the slightest noise. I also had really bizarre dreams and nightmares! Still, these made for only mild suffering. The travellers we had met coming from the opposite direction (from Chengdu & Kangding) had more severe symptoms like nausea and splitting headaches. Note to self: Make my way up to Kilimanjaro and Macchu Picchu real soon -before old age becomes another factor to consider!

Han Chinese are the minority in Litang and the town is mostly made up of Tibetans. The main street is colourful, chaotic and bustling with life.

Keep warm with fur. Where is PETA?! I think the animal-rights activists would have an absolute field day here nabbing people for wearing animal fur or for lining their bike! (see photo at the bottom of this post)

Young Tibetan monks padded out in their crimson red robes and winterwear - isn't it too cold to be wearing a robe around here?!

Crossing the road here is often a hazardous affair, even in the small towns. Pedestrians have to jostling with cars, bicycles, motorbikes, carts, and the occasional yak that finds its way to the middle of the street.

What better way to keep your fingers from falling off from frostbite - gloves with fur lining attached to your bike handles!

Tibetans are passionate about their motorbikes. A friend who has travelled through Tibet has seen nomadic Tibetans zipping their way across the grasslands at top speed, and parking their bikes outside their gers when not using them, right alongside their horses and yaks. At times, you just have to give your horses a rest!

Hazel & I

Sichuan snowscapes

Herds of yaks grazing in the bleak-looking plains- unfazed by the cold. These 2 photos were taken by Will/Hazel (i don't know which).

A traffic jam on the mountain pass -some monks got out of their vehicle to wait in the freezing cold! As it is the only road between some of the towns in south Sichuan, there can be lots of vehicles travelling on the Sichuan-Tibet highway at times. On this particular day, we were stuck in our crummy bus (with no heating) for half an hour waiting for a fleet of container trucks coming from the opposite direction to navigate the sharp bend in front of us. The roads were icy and while waiting, our driver had to dig dirt and earth from the slopes nearby to put underneath the wheels.

In Litang, we awoke to the loud din of locals shovelling snow off the pavement - at bloody 6am!! We opened the windows to find that the town had been blanketed in white. Litang probably gets alot of snow because of its high altitude of 4014m.

Market day in Daocheng

After returning to Zhongdian for a couple of days, it was time for Yingtze to fly home. Will, Hazel and I then continued our journey into Sichuan province, and our plan was to get to Chengdu city through the "back". From Zhongdian, we can travel on the southern Tibet-Sichuan highway, passing through the towns of Daocheng, Litang and Kangding in the mountains to enter Chengdu from the west.

After an excruciatingly long and bumpy marathon 12hour ride, we finally rolled into the Daocheng bus-stop hungry, thirsty, dying for a pee, and to stretch our legs! Being stuck in a rickety old bus, with lots of chain-smoking locals was excruciating. I felt like i had cut short my lifespan by a few years from breathing in so much toxic fumes from the cigarettes!

AND... Not to mention some of the toilet stops were of questionable hygiene. To avoid using them, we drank as little water as possible. But it was also rather cold, which made us want to visit the toilet more.. (ok enough details, i'll stop here) They did stare at us a lot and observed our every move and listend to our English conversation intently - they probably don't see many foreigners around! I got mistaken for being Will and Hazel's tour guide several times throughout the whole week i was with them..

Through another traveller's recommendation, we stayed at a lovely guesthouse called Tongfu - which was probably the cleanest and most spotless hostel we had found in the whole of China! The owner was friendly and invited us to join him and some other travellers for dinner the moment we checked in. Steaming hot soup, steamed rice and vegetables - a warm welcome indeed!

The next day, we went for a walk around the rather small but lively town and discovered a really interesting pile of yakheads outside a shop. Nobody really knows why they were put out there for, with puddles of blood all over. Locals didn't seem to bat an eyelid when they walked past it, but of course, we HAD to take a photo!

yakkity yak - see what happens when you yak too much! (sorry, i know its lame but i can't resist)

This is the boring vegetable section of the market we visited..

Moving on to the much more interesting non-vegetarian section of the market, big slabs of pork and beef are hung up on meat hooks and displayed on the racks. Also on sale are trays of curdled blood and assorted organs... Curdled blood is also known as "blood tofu" as it has a texture like beancurd, and it is supposed to be nourishing. Usually, people eat cook this in a hotpot. Yumm...

And over here, they are blasting some pig trotters with a blowtorch, which i'm not exactly sure why either..

And this is one of my favourite photos .. At the market, a woman doing her shopping has improvised a child carrier with a couple of rattan baskets. This little kid seems pretty snug and comfortable in there with all his winter clothes on. I guess it just proves you don't need alot of money here to buy fancy things- a few simple materials to construct your own child carrier is all you need!