p.s. Thanks for the memories everyone.

In exactly 7 hours i'm going to be on the plane, bound for Hangzhou again. Can't describe how that feeling is just thinking about it. Anxiety, excitement... mostly a sense of dread and loss.

I probably won't be back in singapore for a long time and HZ is going to be my new "home" for now.

I took a drive out alone tonight, just around my neighbourhood. My favourite radio station blasting out, the familiar roads and seemingly permanent roadworks, that comfortable feeling of knowing exactly where everything is, how things work and how i know i have to start all over again while i'm in China.

I wonder how everything and everyone will change a year from now. I wonder how I will change a year from now. Will i miss Hangzhou and feel like an "alien" back in singapore when its time to come back? Where will i go next? Everybody is moving on. Friends have found new jobs, some about to get hitched and others having kids. I won't be here for my granddad -a sweet but grumpy old man who is getting older and seemingly more fragile by the day. I won't be here for my pals to hear about their joys, sorrows or just indulge in some good old bitchin and whining. I won't be here to teach my mum how to use MS Excel.

Some of my closest friends are scattered all over the world and i was lucky to meet one back here this time. I'm going to quote her words because i can't find anything more apt.

is home where your family is? where your friends are? or just somewhere you feel comfortable in? maybe i'll feel the best in the air. like im supposed to be there. supposed to be heading somewhere. where? should i come or should i go?

Sunset over the South-China sea

The skies were clear this evening at 30,000 feet in the air. The flaming big band of orange and vermillion slowly disappeared into a thin red line before me as we flew over the south-china sea. Before long, the stars emerged from the pitch-black sky as i had my airplane dinner.

I wish... that i can see this scene before me everyday. . I would never get sick of the infinite and ever-changing shades of indigo, purple, orange and yellow. Not in my lifetime.

Farewell to the crazy Scotsman (and Scotswoman)

So this is goodbye ...

Yesterday, my ex-boss has left Singapore to take up his promotion in Florida. I felt like a part of me, and what was dear to me in Singapore is gone forever.

I'm not usually the soppy emotional type but i couldn't help but feel this incredible sadness when i heard the news, and a tear or two yesterday, which was his last day. Of course, it was great news that he got promoted but that meant he was going to leave.

I guess its hard to describe the strong emotional attachment. OK, so i left the company (and that was a hard decision too) and the country first but i've always imagined him as a permanent fixture in Singapore (figuratively speaking) and its different knowing he's not going to be there anymore when i'm back.

I didn't actually think i'd made it when he interviewed me 5 years back (Maybe it was my answer to his last question (Did you enjoy studying overseas?) that clinched it - my response to his question was "Extremely".

So i shall dedicate this post as a glowing tribute:

Gordon is more like a mentor/friend than a boss, and he always knew when to let us get on with our work, and when to step in to help us out or stick up for us. Most importantly, he taught me how to teach and how to learn. He's one of the rare leaders who truly posess leadership skills and a sense of humour. After working for him for almost 5 years, he'd watched me morph from fresh-young-enthusiastic graduate to bitter-jaded-cynic. Ah, you couldn't ask for more, really.

Whats more, he's fun to hang out with after-work for a few beers, some good chat and giving helpful pointers on diverse questions such as directions to the nearest bar with happy hours and "What should i do with my life?!"

Joyce is funner than Gordon during their house parties because she does dancing, whale-jumping and makes wicked drinks. Gordon just flashes his silent-toothy grins, even when he thinks something is really funny. I won't forget the time where we all did some crazy wrestling at the Padang way after the JP run had ended. That were plenty of "drunk but still silent and toothy" grins flashed that night!

So i thank him for so many things, many good memories, and some wonderful lessons learnt at work, and in life. I will miss all the laughter, fun times, that ridiculous reindeer do, and those feigned "what now?" roll in the eyes whenever i demanded an answer to my endless questions.

He thinks we'll never meet again but i really hope he's wrong about that one.

My HZ bacholorette pad, Version 1.0

As promised, here are some photos of the place i've rented. Its situated rather far from the main road so its nice and quiet! No traffic noise or screeching bike brakes. That really annoys me to no end, especially when masses of bikes screech to a halt at a traffic junction at the same time. It's a cacophony of nails on chalkboard. Shudder.

Living room -awesome sound system -all i'm missing is some strobe lights. TV - several chinese channels but only 1 English channel.

Lounge area -Airy and lots of sunlight although at the moment, those plants are wilting from my neglect - they haven't been sunned since i'm out working all week. Its my favourite part of the house though. On weekends and evenings, you can see lots of kids playing outside.







Guest bedroom - if you pop by, this is where you're going to sleep. (that soft toy isn't mine by the way). Some of you have indicated you are coming over to visit - i'm taking reservations now, and some black-out dates apply ;-) If you can cook and WILL cook, or bring me a bottle of duty-free liquor on the way, you will have priority.

Small kitchenette - no bar yet, haha

Bedroom upstairs

The view from my window - part of all the extra frills that i have to pay for!

So... Version 2.0 will include those darn curtains that my landlady has yet to put up. A sofa, rug, coffee table, DVD collection and mini-bar are also in the works. My life will be complete then.

Any suggestions on how to deck this up?

Mars Attack!

Its a battle to complete all that paperwork in order to work here. Endless form-filling, submission of multiple copies of certificates, passport photos, application letters, and permits-to-get-a-permit. Anyway, I'm proud to annouce i'm now an officially approved foreigner. It ain't over yet though, I still have to obtain my residence permit!

Not just ANY E.T., mind you. I'm a certified employable one.

Hangzhou survival 101

Arrived: 28 Jan 2007

~~Setting up house~~

So, i've survived a week here in Hangzhou. The first few days were rather stressful and hectic. Moved into my apartment in the western suburbs of the city and began a massive buying spree - bedding, electrical appliances, miscellaneous household items and then carting them home, queueing to open a bank account, cleaning the apartment etc. Fun stuff.

I can't total up the hours i've spent in electrical appliance shops, hypermarts comparing the prices and brands of various electrical appliances but it must be more than the amount of life that's cut off when you smoke 10 packs of cigarettes. And let me tell you, i probably HAVE shortened my life by that equivalent.

They must sell 50 varieties of rice-cookers here, i swear. Sales assistants here shadow you as you walk around the shop like ghosts. I can't seem to look at Anything without them trying to give me the pitch so i'm reduced to these furtive glances at the shelves and trying to shake them off my tail. no luck.

I picked up a rice-cooker to examine it closely and Persistent Assistant helpfully pointed out "This is a rice-cooker." Yeah thanks. She then proceeded to rattle off the virtues of it doubling as a porridge-maker, steamboat blah blah. Ditto the miracle water filter, heater, hair-dryer etc.

Its been awhile since i've lived on my own and it takes getting used to! I felt really grown up (meaning - it was a big pain in the a**) having to deal with workmen/ technicians who came to fix my washing machine, fridge and internet. Daddy i need you!!!!!

~~Always bargain!~~

When in China... do as the Chinese. ..

Yes, don't EVER pay the listed price here. I've learnt to ask "Is there a discount?" before buying anything and chances are, they'll shave off 10-20% off the marked price, even in a big store. If there aren't any discounts, you have to badger them for a freebie. Thats the way to go here. Its so competitive amongst the shops that they are bound to cave in. Muahahaha.

~~Layering does work~~

somewhat...

its about 5 deg here this week and according to locals, it is already a "warm" winter. I must pile on a few kilos with the amount of clothes i wear and it make me feel like a rather chunky penguin when i go out. Most Hangzhou houses also do not have central heating either! Brrrrr... i'm thankful for my trusty little heater that keeps me from hypothermia when i shower.

~~Mandarin is oozing out of my pores~~

My other daily struggles are more like "communication problems".

Everything is in Mandarin. .. I've always been bad at Mandarin anyway but its became painfully apparent here. I can get by with ordinary conversation but i'm stumped at technical and business vocab. My laptop language settings, emails, communications, employee handbook, discussions and instant messaging with colleagues are all in chinese.. Its like someone flipped a switch in my head to a foreign language mode and i have think, speak, write it all the time.

Takes me 3x as long to process everything!!

Work is going ok, its quiet for me since i'm new and the rest of the staff are busy wrapping up projects before Chinese new year. Besides i can't really catch 40% of what they are saying haha.

Just last friday, i had to call our IT helpdesk and he explained (of course in mandarin) how to configure my laptop. It doesn't help that Hangzhou people tend to speak very fast either. I was reduced to saying "huh?" at every sentence. (look- before i came, i didn't even know how to say "restart computer" and "double-click"!!) Finally he gave this big sigh and and walked over to help me. He probably was convinced i was a techno-idiot. Or maybe just idiot in general.

In any case, i'm glad that i CAN read at the very least and i've figured out the public transport here. Took buses everywhere over the weekend -woohoo!! There's loads of shops and local eateries around my area so i'll never starve even if i don't cook. Eating out is pretty affordable here especially after converting it into SGD.

So its 10 more days before i come back to Singapore for Chinese New Year - a brief respite from All Things Chinese. And I can't wait to see my family again!!

I'll post pictures of my apartment and write more this weekend - IF my internet doesn't mysteriously conk out again like it did last night.

The End & GreatLeapForward

For the uninformed.. . I have been back home for about a month now. My adventure that started on 19 May ended on Dec 10 2006, with a flight from Shanghai back to Singapore. It was with mixed feelings as i picked up my luggage and walked out of Changi Airport.

While it was awful knowing that it was The End, I was glad to be home, and that i've made it through (relatively) unscathed. Not that i was too worried by the doomsayers when first i started out but my i feel sorry for my family who were constantly worrying about me all the time while i was away.

SO.. Reality bitch slaps too hard and all too soon. Its time to get back to the real world again, and i'm back my ex company working until end January.

However, i'm glad to announce that in 2 weeks, another brand new challenge for 2007 awaits - my great leap forward to a new job in Hangzhou, China!

Goodbye Merlion, Hello Mao! New country, new job, new life.

Most of my friends thought i was taking my idea of a "change of scenery" was abit too far. Yes, yes, i've heard it all before. "but Why?!!","ewwww, why china?!", "China is a difficult country to work and live in, with dodgy hygeine and sanitation", etc. but oh well, i like living life on the edge. Birdflu, here i come.

Besides, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that China is going to be the next economic giant, if it isn't already. And it is exciting to work there and experience all the changes and development first hand. Mandarin is probably going to be the lingua franca in the not-so-distant future so it probably pays for me to get there and sort that out - what better way to do it than a 100% language/culture immersion. In fact, given how poor my Mandarin is, it was pretty amazing how i landed that Hangzhou job.

AND.. there are still so many places to visit in China.. you can't peel the backpack off me just yet ;-)

Since 19 May, i've visited bits or passed through Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, U.K., Spain, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Estonia, Poland & China. At times, travelling on my own was tough but i told myself that a bad day travelling was still better than being one of those poor sods stuck in a cubicle at work! ha! Along the way, i also met up with old friends, strengthened our friendships, and made some cool new pals. Together, we had gawked and gaped at some amazing sights, cursed at some really steep slopes, braved the most dodgy toilets, and gulped down some questionable home-made wine. Waayheyyy! i survived!

So, as a tribute to the mastercard ad,

# of countries visited: 13

# of times i went to the wrong airport for my flight: 1

# of times i had cravings for my favourite Newton carrot cake: >25

# of friends made: countless

# of photos taken: >2000

Amount of money spent: too much

Experience of a lifetime: PRICELESS!!

And at the risk of sounding like an awards acceptance speech, i thank everyone who had made my trip such a fantastic and memorable one, and if anybody has any doubts about trying this out, don't think too much - just go for it!

Happy New Year to all!!

Great wall of China - Jinshanling to Simatai

Back in Beijing, i was happy to be reunited with Will and Hazel again (we left for our seperate ways after Chengdu). Before i left for home and they for the trans-siberian railway, we went on a trip to the Great Wall on the outskirts of Beijing city. The hike took about 3.5 hours and took us through some very deserted parts of the wall with fantastic views.

Steps, steps and more steps.. it was like being on a 3.5hour stair-master workout...

We must have climbed at least 15 watchtowers along the way..

Parts of the wall between Jinshanling and Simatai are so steep and crumbly you have to scramble up on all fours. We didn't meet many other travellers on the way. It was deserted save for a few very hardy touts who tried to pursue us along the wall and sell us postcards.

We saw a couple taking their wedding photos as we approached the Jinshanling gate. The photographer was trying to coax a smile out of the groom while the bride shuffled uncomfortably in her poofed-up dress. Meanwhile, the girl in purple just can't wait to get it over and done with. Funny!

Shanghai in pictures..

Shanghai was going through a period of 10-days of continuous rain so it didn't make for good sight-seeing weather. Didn't do much except wander around the Bund, a visit to the art musuem, and hiding in malls (retail and caffeine therapy).

Elegant art-deco style facade of the Shanghai Art Museum.

Shanghai skyline.. Views of Pudong from the Bund.. Not too long ago, Pudong was just a swampy marshland. Now, it is a gleaming example of China's economic and financial boom. It's impossible to take any photos of China without a crane in it!

The Bund.. with loads of tourists..and touts. I did a litte experiment. When i walked along the Bund with my camera in hand, i suffered the countless touts and was constantly harrassed to buy souvenirs and boat tours, just like the Western tourists. The moment i tucked it into my bag, i enjoyed some relative peace and quiet :-) Nice!

Sunday in the park - i thought you go to the park to escape from all the people.. but obviously everybody has the same idea.

Sunday social - oldies gathered in groups playing cards.

I'll be visiting Shanghai again so i'll be sure to write more the next time.

Zhouzhuang, the movie set

Zhouzhuang, so the tour brochure exhorts (and i shall type it all out here since i am incapable of coming up with something original today) was "originally built in 1086, just like a shining pearl between Shanghai and Suzhou. It is surrounded by water and boats are needed for short distance trips, thus the style and features as well as the structure of "small bridges, flowing water and households" of the town of meandering streams and rippling water in the south of lower reaches of the Yangtze River are preservced very well. Famous both at home and abroad for the preservation of numerous buildings of the Ming and Qing dynasties [between 1368-1911], Zhouzhuang has become an outstanding representative of water-town in the south of lower reaches of the Yangtze-river and the treasure of oriental culture for its one thousand years of history, rich Wu culture, its beautiful scenery as well as its unique folkways. "

So there.

I was also told that certain scenes in "Mission Impossible 3" were filmed in Zhouzhuang to depict the "old Shanghai". Do you remember the bit where Tom Cruise sprints through some old town shouting "rang kai! rang kai!!" as he tries to escape or rescue someone (or something like that?) - the movie was too forgettable..

Despite Zhouzhuang being postcard perfect, with its cobbled streets, wooden boats lined up along the waterways and well-preserved architecture, i found that the town had lost the spirit it was trying to preserve.

The exorbitant entry price of 100yuan into the town was quite off-putting and i imagine that it is even more steep to the local average Chinese. The streets were lined with tacky souvenir shops and i was constantly harrassedto buy some kitsch or eat in one of its similarly priced restaurants.

Yes, it was suffering from a case of over-commercialism endemic of many AAAA graded tourist sites in China.

Any site with this top grade stamped proudly on it typically means that it had better prepare itself for the throngs of domestic tourists that eagerly descend on them during weekends and national holidays.

A Chinese "ah yi" tourist poses on one of the numerous stone bridges connecting the streets of Zhouzhuang.

It being on the UN World Cultural Heritage list doesn't help either. Zhouzhuang also appeals to the Western tourist who has arrived in China, shocked and dismayed at how developed and modern the country has become, with its glass and steel skyscrapers, ugly power plants and smog-filled cities. Zhouzhuang presents the perfect antidote to these - the elusive, exotic "old Orient" that they had hoped to find in China.

I was glad i had packed a sandwich along with me for lunch. As i sat in a quiet corner of a temple located in the town observing the going-ons, i came to realise that the temple appeared a little too "make-believe", as though it was put there to enhance the ambience for the benefit of the tourists.

Of course, it came complete with the requisite buddha statues, incense burners, and monks. While there were no tourists around, the "monks" appeared to be very relaxed. In fact, a little too relaxed. They sang loudly and joked with the souvenir shop assistants, even slapping each other on the back. Hmm, a little too chummy for my liking, i thought.

Just when there were strains of a loudhailer and a big group of domestic tourists arrived, they immediately stopped and changed their expression, whipped out their prayer beads, sombre-faced as though they were in deep meditation as they strolled along the temple.

The "temple"

Forget MI3! It made me wonder if these "monks" were just playing a part in the big movie that is called Zhouzhuang, where the souvenir shop assistants, fortune tellers and monks were part of the show. I saw some tourists praying fervently and donating generously to the temple tonation boxes so at least some of the audience believed the temple was genuine.

Somewhat disappointed, i left Zhouzhuang. Cynical me didn't feel like playing a part in this Chinese Disneyland.

Chengdu - yep no sign of yaks here anywhere...

After weeks in the backwaters of southwestern China, we finally arrived in the Sichuan capital Chengdu. Like migrants "fresh off the boat", we gawked and marvelled at the skyscrapers, numerous expressways, fancy big cars on the road, and in general, the hustle-bustle of city life.

Immediately after dumping our backpacks in the guesthouse, we made a beeline for Western food - it had been 3 weeks since i'd sunk my teeth into a sandwich! French fries with ketchup!! I could cry... This is one of those rare times where i appreciate Ronald for providing consistent, identical, unhealthy junk food everywhere in the world. Hey, I need it! We had all shed quite a few pounds along the way.

In Chengdu, we were mostly in a recuperative mood and not too excited about any sight-seeing. The 3 of us were in good spirits and our appetites had returned. It was great to have consistent electricity, continuously hot running water in the shower, and clean clothes again. Chengdu weather was also much milder, at about 18-20 degrees celsius - which meant we could actually air our skin and feet without getting hypothermia. We spent 3 very leisurely days reading, playing table-tennis in the guesthouse, eating tuna sandwiches and running errands.

Chocolate-cheese for sale in the supermarket.. Why..?

As if blood tofu, chicken hearts and blow-torched pig trotters aren't exotic enough, a walk through the supermarket gives an insight into the various bizarre types of food you can try in China. I admit to liking chocolate and cheese... but not both at the same time!

On the way to the train station, we spotted this man poised and balanced perfectly on his motorbike, snoozing. I had a sudden, irresistable urge to walk over and tip the bike over..

Lake Mugecuo (part 2)

Apline lakes and hot springs dot the area, and about 45minutes trek from the lake, you can get a spectacular view of the Gongga mountain range, also known as the Minya Konka. (Everything here has about 3 different names! One in chinese, tibetan and sometimes English if you are lucky!)

Houses for Hobbits!

Along the way, we spotted some tiny houses that seemed to be stacked together entirely with stones - its a wonder it doesn't fall apart. We didnt' really go too near - there were lots of dogs barking!

With Will & Hazel - they made excellent travelling companions and i couldn't have done this long Sichuan journey without them! Will and Hazel have been backpacking through Asia for the past 15 months and China is their final stop before taking the Trans-siberian express home in time for Christmas. They entertained with their jokes and travel stories, watched out for me and looked after me when i was ill in Litang. Being in each other's company for almost 24 hours a day for a week meant that we all emerged with a new understanding of each other's idiosyncracies, habits, eating likes and dislikes!

Lake Mugecuo (part 1)

After Litang, we embarked (you guessed it, on another 8 hour rickety bus ride) to Kangding. The long, smoke-filled bus journeys were now taking its toil on us. No doub,t it was scenic on the way but we were always having to leave early in the morning e.g. at 6am, jostle onto the bus and endure the freezing bumpy ride. At Kangding, we were debating how many days to spend in this little town before moving onward. Should we break for 2 nights in Kangding or press on to Chengdu as soon as possible? We are now 8 hours away from Chengdu - not far now from the capital of Sichuan where there are more comfortable alternatives (Trains!) to other parts of China! Will, Hazel and I didn't find Kangding particularly interesting and we embarked on a little outing to Lake Mugecuo instead.

Lake Mugecuo or Mo Ge Tso Lake in Tibetan

Lake Mugecuo is a beautiful reserve area located about 35km away from the town of Kangding. It covers an area of about 500 sq km (bigger than the size of Singapore!), and the altitude is between 2900 -3800m.

Apart from the lake, there are several other scenic spots and walking trails.

Spin some Tibetan prayer wheels for good luck...

Litang, the wild town (part 3)

Kids clambering around Hazel -fascinated with the camera and excited to see their own images on it. They also wanted to take turns snapping photos! This one below was taken by one of the kids.

The Ganden Thubchen Choekhorling Monastery

Litang, the wild town (part 2)

On the way to the local lamasery, we passed through a small Tibetan village.

Traditional Tibetan houses with the distinctive red lining. Most of the houses are made of mud and brick.

These houses blend right in to the barren hills..

The biggest load of crap i've ever seen..

While wandering around the village, we passed by some villagers collecting yak dung. Someone must have came with a truck to unload the whole thing in the middle of the street. Yaks are useful animals to have around - good for meat, making butter, keep you warm with their fur and even their their dung can be used. During winter, when firewood is scarce, dried yak dung is a good and economical source of fuel!

Wind-burned cheeks and snotty noses!

Children from the village let loose after school - they were all very friendly and curious to know us. Even though they were shy at first, after the initial exchange of "tashideleks", we were able to converse a little bit in Mandarin! One or two of them asked Will and Hazel for "One yuan, give me one yuan!" - that was the only English phase they knew and no doubt they were trying their luck. I had to admonish them sternly in mandarin for begging.

Litang, the wild town (part 1)

From Daocheng, Will, Hazel and I continued our way northward toward Litang on yet another rickety local bus. Wild, remote, and scenic, Litang is situated 4014 m above sea-level on the Tibetan plateau.

Having ascended slowly from the various places we had been travelling through for the previous 10 days, we were able to acclimatize better. Still, the altitude got to me. The air here is freezing cold, dry and thin in oxygen. I found myself panting just walking up a flight of steps, or breathless and gasping for air when i walked too fast up a slight gradient. (How do people run a the Inca marathon in Macchu Picchu at 4000m altitude?!)

During the few weeks i was here, sleep came in fitful bouts and i awoke to the slightest noise. I also had really bizarre dreams and nightmares! Still, these made for only mild suffering. The travellers we had met coming from the opposite direction (from Chengdu & Kangding) had more severe symptoms like nausea and splitting headaches. Note to self: Make my way up to Kilimanjaro and Macchu Picchu real soon -before old age becomes another factor to consider!

Han Chinese are the minority in Litang and the town is mostly made up of Tibetans. The main street is colourful, chaotic and bustling with life.

Keep warm with fur. Where is PETA?! I think the animal-rights activists would have an absolute field day here nabbing people for wearing animal fur or for lining their bike! (see photo at the bottom of this post)

Young Tibetan monks padded out in their crimson red robes and winterwear - isn't it too cold to be wearing a robe around here?!

Crossing the road here is often a hazardous affair, even in the small towns. Pedestrians have to jostling with cars, bicycles, motorbikes, carts, and the occasional yak that finds its way to the middle of the street.

What better way to keep your fingers from falling off from frostbite - gloves with fur lining attached to your bike handles!

Tibetans are passionate about their motorbikes. A friend who has travelled through Tibet has seen nomadic Tibetans zipping their way across the grasslands at top speed, and parking their bikes outside their gers when not using them, right alongside their horses and yaks. At times, you just have to give your horses a rest!

Hazel & I